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Collecting custom pool and billiard cue sticks can be a rewarding hobby. In fact, certain works from notable cue makers can rapidly appreciate in value. The purpose of this page is to help the collector focus on what typically makes a cue stick collectible.

Primary considerations-

• Cuemaker- this is possibly the most important factor for many reasons. Most astute collectors tend to collect works from notable cue makers for good reason- they usually appreciate in value, making the purchase a good investment. How a cuemaker becomes a notable builder hinges on several variables which include: from whom they were taught, whether or not the cue collecting public appreciates their designs and craftsmanship, if the cue maker is well known (there are some cue makers who made so few cues, that despite their high quality, the collecting public is not fully aware of their works), limited production meaning shops that do not mass produce cues, popularity, and of course a reputation for quality although there are some exceptions. Cue collectors who focus on newer cue makers like to speculate about these variables, sometimes with great success.
• The Actual Cue- if a cue is made by a known notable cue maker, it is almost an instant collectible. In these cases, the actual cue itself helps to determine the varying degrees of collectibility. However, cuemakers who are not yet notable may produce works that are sought after by collectors. These include (for both notable and not notable cuemakers) such attributes as: Firsts & Lasts (typically, a cue maker's first cue is sought after, as well as his last cue), first inlaid or fancy cue, first cue with a revolutionary design or construction, if the cue was used by a famous player (many players received cues as gifts but never used them, don't be misled into thinking that these are as valuable as the ones they played with), aesthetics, and so on.
• Quality & Value- these two things do not always work together. There are some cues that have incredibly high levels of quality and craftsmanship but fail to bring premium prices on the secondary market. In contrast, there are certain cues that do not meet a high standard of quality that would be sold for massive dollar amounts if they were to come on the market. As cue making progresses as a craft, quality and value should more closely follow each other because the number of builders today who are producing high-quality works is substantial.

Just as there are "to do" practices when collecting cues, the list of things "not to do" is quite extensive. Consider these when adding works to your collection.

• Do not purchase stolen cues. In addition to being wrong, it will most likely come back to haunt you because the cue collecting community is quite small. If you purchase a stolen cue, even unknowingly, you will be the one to lose the investment if and when your new cue is discovered as being stolen.
• Do not be pushed into a cue purchase. Typically, if someone is pushing you to buy a cue, it typically means that the cue needs to be pushed in order to be sold at that price. If you are not sure about buying the cue and want to think about it or research it more, trust your instincts.
• Do no be led to think that esoteric attributes add value to a cue. For example, a cue maker's first cue featuring points with veneers is a value-added attribute. However, attributes such as the cue being the first example to use a certain color combination of veneers on the points is highly irrelevant with few exceptions. If the cue was a tribute cue where the color combination more easily identifies the cue as such, it may play into the value. Many times, certain color combinations or the artistic use of exotic woods may contribute to a cue's value because of aesthetics.
• Do not pay a premium for unknowns. Many cues are instantly identifiable. However, many cues may be confused as someone else's work. For example, Herman Rambow cues and Brunswick "Willie Hoppe" Model cues are in many cases almost identical. Since they look so much alike, many who have the Brunswick cues believe that they true Rambow cues. The difference in value is substantial. A nice example (90%+) of a Brunswick "Hoppe" Titlist may bring $400-$600 at auction. In contrast, the same cue (in looks) but a true Rambow may bring $2000 and up. The best way to know about a cue stick is to research its provenance. Also, ask for the opinions of many experts (cue makers, collectors, and historians). If most or all of them are in concurrance, you may be able to make a more educated decision. If a cue has no provenance, you are not certain of its origins, and the experts disagree, be careful not to over-invest in it.